英文论文翻译中文(服装专业)
2020-03-02 00:02:42 来源：范文大全收藏下载本文
How clothing design and cultural industries refashioned frontier masculinities: a historical geography of Western wear Abstract Gendered subjectivities emerge historically and geographically, not only in situ, within an ‗authentic‘ origin period or site, but through later retrospective commodifications and fantastical popular culture depictions.This article traces the masculine identity of the cowboy as commodified and performed through clothing.The cowboy emerged from colonial origins as a model and myth of frontier masculinity: the ‗rugged outdoor type‘.But it was then formularized and stylized when subject to popular culture diffusion, and as accompanying clothing design evolved.Through clothing – advertised by metropolitan manufacturers and consumed acro America and beyond – an archetypal, sexualized cowboy ‗look‘ thus emerged.The author traces a historical geography of cowboy masculinities in clothing design, from early ‗frontier garments for the outdoor man‘ to later Western-wear ‗for that long, lean look‘.Related constructions of femininity are also considered, after women\'s Western-wear clothing lines were produced in the 1950s.To illustrate, I draw on archival brochures, catalogs, and advertising materials from the 1920s to 1970s, as well as discu the material design of the clothes themselves.I focus especially on the Western snap shirt – an apparel item never actually worn on the nineteenth-century colonial frontier, but that became an ‗eential‘ element of the cowboy look, and a vehicle for masculine appearance.Western-wear epitomizes how gendered subject positions are visually constituted in relational fashion via bodies, materials, media, and imagined geographies.
服装设计与文化产业如何重新设计边疆男性气概：西服的历史地理学
性别化的主体，不仅是在原地、具有―本真性‖的起源时期或地点浮现，亦是透过日后的怀旧商品化与虚构的流行文化叙述，在历史与地理中浮现。本文追溯牛仔的男性气概身份认同，作为透过衣着的商品化与展演。牛仔从殖民起源中兴起，作为边疆男性气概的模型与神话——一种―强健的野外典型‖。但它从属于流行文化传播后，随着相应的服装设计发展，被公式化与风格化。透过由大都会的製造者进行宣传、并在全美国及其他地方消费的服装，一个原型、性化的牛仔―样貌‖因而浮现。我追溯服装设计中的牛仔男性气概的历史地理，从早期的―户外男性的边疆服装‖，到晚期―高瘦样貌‖的西式衣着。本文同时考量1950年代女性的西式衣着样貌开始生产后的相关女性气质建构。我将引用1920年至1970年间的档案册子、商品型录与广告品来进行描绘，并探讨衣服本身的物质设计。我将特别聚焦西式按扣衬衫——一种在十九世纪殖民边疆从未穿过、但后来成为牛仔风格的―关键‖元素、且作为男性气概外表传达工具的衣着品项。西式穿着，是性别化的主体位置，如何在关係性的流行时尚中，透过身体、物质、媒体与想像的地理，在视觉上构成的象徵。
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